Broken heads, hidden leaks, dead zones, and freeze damage — repaired properly. Plus new sprinkler system design and installation for lawns that need to stay green through a Gulf Coast summer.
We install and repair lawn irrigation systems across Southeast Texas. That covers the small stuff — a head the mower clipped, a zone that stopped coming on — and the bigger stuff, like a mainline leak under a driveway or a full system for a new build. If you're not sure which one you've got, that's what the free estimate is for.
Most irrigation problems announce themselves in the lawn before you ever notice the equipment. Here's how to read what you're seeing:
| What you notice | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| A brown patch that returns in the same spot | Coverage gap — a misaligned, sunken, or blocked head |
| One zone won't turn on at all | Failed solenoid, bad valve, or a cut wire |
| A zone won't shut off | Debris in the valve, or a stuck diaphragm |
| Soggy ground or a spot that never dries | Underground leak on a line or fitting |
| Water bill jumped with no change in habits | Leak running on every cycle, often unseen |
| Heads barely mist instead of spraying | Pressure loss, often a leak or too many heads on a zone |
| Water sprays sideways or floods one area | Cracked head, broken riser, or missing nozzle |
| System worked in fall, not in spring | Freeze damage — usually the backflow preventer |
A soft, soggy patch that stays wet between waterings is a leak running underground on every single cycle. It won't fix itself, it inflates your water bill quietly month after month, and in our clay soil it can start undermining whatever's nearby — a walkway, a slab edge, a driveway. It's the cheapest problem to fix early and one of the most expensive to leave alone.
The most common call we get. Mower damage, string trimmer damage, heads that have sunk into soft ground over the years, or spray patterns thrown off by shrubs that have grown in since the system was installed. Usually a same-visit fix.
We locate the break, dig only what we need to, repair the line, and put the sod back. Southeast Texas clay is hard on buried PVC — it expands when it's wet and shrinks when it's dry, and that constant movement works joints and fittings loose over the years. It's the single biggest reason systems here develop leaks that systems in sandier parts of the state don't.
When a zone stops responding, the cause is usually electrical or in the valve — not the heads. We test the controller output, check the solenoid, and trace wiring before replacing anything, because swapping parts blindly gets expensive fast.
If the system was undersized or badly laid out from the start, no amount of extra runtime fixes it — you just overwater everything else trying to green up one dry corner. We adjust arcs and spacing, change nozzles, or add heads so the coverage actually overlaps the way it's supposed to.
Hard freezes here are infrequent enough that a lot of local systems aren't set up to handle one, which is exactly why they take damage when it happens. Backflow preventers and above-ground piping are the usual casualties — they hold standing water with nowhere to drain. The damage often stays hidden until the first real run in spring.
For new construction, a fresh lawn, or a property that's never had irrigation, we design the system around the actual site rather than dropping in a template. That means walking the property and accounting for sun and shade, slope and drainage, soil type, existing trees and beds, and your available water pressure and meter size — which is the constraint that quietly determines how many heads can share a zone.
Getting zoning right at the design stage is what separates a system you forget about from one you're constantly fighting. Sunny St. Augustine and a shaded bed have genuinely different water needs, and if they share a zone, one of them is always wrong.
The cheapest time to install irrigation is before the seed goes down — the ground is already open, there's no established lawn to cut into, and you're not repairing turf you just paid for. If you're planning both, tell us up front and we'll sequence them so you're not paying twice to disturb the same dirt. See our hydroseeding services.
Southeast Texas is a genuinely difficult place to keep a lawn consistent, for reasons that work against each other.
We get real rainfall — enough that people assume irrigation is optional. But it arrives unevenly. A wet week followed by three dry ones in August is normal, and it's those gaps that kill new grass. Meanwhile the heavy clay that dominates the area drains slowly and holds water at the surface, so overwatering is just as damaging as underwatering. Grass sitting in saturated clay develops shallow roots and gets fungal problems, then those shallow roots leave it defenseless the moment things dry out.
What that adds up to: watering here isn't about volume, it's about consistency and timing. That's the part a properly zoned system with a controller does better than a person with a hose ever will — particularly during the two to three week establishment window after seeding, when missing a day or two in July genuinely costs you the lawn.
Irrigation pricing is driven by a handful of things, and any contractor who quotes you over the phone without seeing the property is guessing:
We diagnose first and give you a firm number before any work starts. Estimates are free, and we'll tell you honestly when a repair isn't worth it compared to replacing a section.
Irrigation work across Southeast Texas:
Just outside that list? Call and ask — we cover a wide area and travel for larger jobs.
It depends on what's actually wrong. Replacing a few broken heads is a small job; a cracked mainline or a failed valve manifold takes longer and costs more. We diagnose first and give you the number before any work starts, so there are no surprises.
Usually it's a coverage problem, not a water problem. Heads get knocked out of alignment by mowers, sink into soft ground, get blocked by shrubs that have grown in, or the zone had gaps in it from the start. A brown patch that keeps coming back in the same place is almost always a head or spacing issue rather than a scheduling one.
Yes — and it's common precisely because hard freezes are rare enough that local systems often aren't protected against them. Backflow preventers and above-ground piping are the usual casualties, because they hold standing water with nowhere to drain. You often won't know until you run the system in spring.
You need consistent water for the first two to three weeks, which is the make-or-break window. You can do it by hand if you're genuinely diligent, but a system removes the human factor. Most hydroseeding failures we get called out to look at turn out to be watering failures, not seed failures.
For an established lawn, deep and infrequent beats short and daily — roughly an inch a week total, split over two or three sessions, adjusted for rain. Our humidity means you often need less than you'd think, and overwatering clay causes as many problems as underwatering. New seed is the exception: it wants light and frequent.
Yes. We handle commercial and industrial sites alongside residential work, including irrigation tied into larger seeding and erosion control projects.
Free estimates across Southeast Texas. Call us and describe what the lawn is doing — we can usually narrow it down before we even get there.
